Get your basic bodice pattern.
You don’t need to shape out the side yet. On your bodice block pattern mark out your chest length line, bust point line, under bust line, waist line and lower waist line.
The next step after marking out your chest, bust, under bust, waist and lower waist length is to determine your dart width, which is the distances between one nipple to the other nipple. Mine is 8 inches divided by 2, which is 4 inches.
out your nipple to nipple measurement starting from the Bust Point line all the way down to the waist, and draw a straight line. ( my lines are not straight, because I’m using a free hand.)
Next, get the center point of your shoulder and draw a straight line meeting the Bust Point Line.
The next step is to create the dart.
For my dart, I used 1 inch, just to give a fuller bust impression. Mark out 1 inch both sides of the bust line.
The next step, measure the length of your bust radius. The best and easiest way to know it, is by measuring from your Bust Point to Under Bust. Mine was 4 inches. You can use a compass to create a circle, or better still, place your ruler on the Bust Point and mark your radius.
Mark out 1 inch on both sides
Next step is to connect all the dart points. ( The dart is not meant to look that way, I can’t just keep my hand straight)
The next step is to create your desired neck line. Mine was a sweetheart neck line.
Mark out your bust, waist and lower waist.
Before marking out, add whatever measurement you used for your dart on the sides. For instance, if your waist is 7 inches ( quarter measurement) and you used 2 inches for the dart (that is 1 inch on both sides) Add the inches to the waist. Which is 7 + 2 = 9 inches. Do same for the bust and waist.
Cut out your pattern. It will look this
My next illustration will be on the back and the peplum circle.